Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Hello My Loving Family,

If you couldn’t tell by now, I kinda enjoy my life in this Land of Kimchi. However, it’s easy to love this place as a foreigner. We get to circumvent a lot of the pressure that comes with being an actual Korean person. The pressures of school, work, relationships—it seems like everything here is designed to crush your soul into a convenient little cube. Perhaps the greatest of these pressures, however, is that of Korean parents. Pressure in what, you ask? In everything.

Let’s start with marriage. In Korea, people rarely get married early or late in life, almost everyone gets hitched right around thirty years old, plus or minus two years. You know how American women talk about how “their biological clock is ticking” and it sends them into a hormonal tailspin where they become so man hungry and vulnerable that they almost can’t function? In Korea, it’s even worse.

I’ll tell you a quirky little anecdote from my own life to accentuate this point. When I was a fresh-faced college grad who had just moved to Korea, I was out at a karaoke on a Wednesday night. I had just finished belting out the greatest version of “Living on a Prayer” Korea ever heard, when a cute Korean girl approached me from across the room. Let’s call her Julie. After I brief conversation, I deciphered two essential details:

1.)    She had a boyfriend
2.)    She had cute friends she could introduce me to

Clearly, the second point appealed to me more. A week later, I ended up going out for drinks with Julie’s friend, a girl we’ll call Sally. Sally was shy and had received a fair amount of plastic surgery, but was cute and spoke decent English, so I gave her a shot. The problem was, whenever I asked her how old she was, she would always answer “age is not important.” Coming from a society where age determines respect, I found this answer to be suspect. But, she didn’t look like she could be much older than me, so I didn’t let it bother me.

Ultimately, the relationship fizzled out. I got over it, but the question of Sally’s age lingered in my mind. Then, almost eight months from the time we stopped dating, I was out with my kumdo brothers eating spicy octopus when I ran into Julie, the girl who had originally set up Sally and I. We got to talking, and the conversation went something like this:

Julie: Hey, Dan. Wow, you look really handsome.

Me: Yeah, I get that a lot. Hey, I never got a chance to thank you for setting me up with Sally. Sorry things didn’t work out.

Julie: Oh that’s okay, it happens. I’m sure you have no problem meeting girls with those muscles.

Me: Thanks, but you should probably calm down. You have a boyfriend.

Julie: Sorry, it’s just tough.

Me: I get that a lot. Hey, there was something I always wanted to ask you.

Julie: Anything for you, Dan.

Me: So, Sally would never tell me how old she was. She would always dodge the question.

Julie: Really? Do you want to know how old she is?

Me: Absolutely.

Julie: She’s thirty.

Me: Daaaammmnnn. Didn’t see that one coming.

Julie: Yeah, she looks a lot younger.

Me: What’s she up to these days?

Julie: Oh, she’s married.

Boom.

When I discovered this, my wheels started turning. If we assume she met the guy the day after we stopped dating AND we assume was married the day before I met Julie, their relationship, from inception to marriage was slightly less than eight months, and most likely way shorter than that. Or maybe she was two-timing me. The point is, when I tell this story to Korean people, though, they’re not surprised. Spending the rest of your life with someone becomes more and more spontaneous the closer you get to thirty.

I think the cause of this phenomenon that many unmarried men and women still live with their parents. Hell, most Korean girls have curfews well into their late-twenties. This is the reason why every girl I’ve dated in this country is fantastic at lying to their parents. Still though, this explains how marriage is, ironically, a kind of independence.

Even if you find the love of your life, it’s not that easy. They don’t only need to be good enough for you, they need to be good enough for Mom and Dad. Marrying someone your parents don’t approve of doesn’t really fly out here. Sometimes, parents veto the marriage for perfectly valid reasons. Sometimes, though, marriages get the thumbs-down for…psychic reasons.



Koreans are superstitious by nature. When big decisions arise, it’s off to the fortune teller. Using the art of shamanism, they can tell anything about you, from how many kids you’ll have to what your job will be in ten years. This isn’t just some random palm reading—there are entire schools of shamanism unique to Korea. Kwan-sang fortune tellers, for example, specialize in reading facial features. They determine future actions based on factors like how close you eyes are together or how high your forehead is. The logic is that the decisions you make help sculpt your face, so therefore your face is a guide to your future actions. Interestingly enough, some people opt to get plastic surgery, not to make themselves prettier per say, but rather to enhance their Kwan-sang appearance. Plastic surgery, in essence, to change their destiny. Weird, wild stuff.

This is not to be taken lightly. Recently, I knew a man who asked his girlfriend to marry him. His parents, in Korean tradition, went to a psychic after learning this. The psychic predicted their son would be divorced within three years if he married the woman. The parents immediately tried to veto the marriage, leading shit-storm of massive proportions within the family.

Yes, this is the fourteenth most powerful economic country in the world, but old habits die hard. Not that this author is trying to discredit the validity of psychics. Who’s to say they can’t really tell the future? Koreans even acknowledge there are a lot of fakes, but some truly have the ability to see into the future. Still, though. Calling off your son’s wedding because of something a stranger on the street told you? That’s cold, baby. Ice cold.

Now let’s go to my favorite topic, women. As we all know, Korea is the plastic surgery capital of the world, but why? What is it about this region of the globe that instills this need to go under that beautifying knife? While doing some research on that very topic, I came across this little gem: “Twenty-five percent of Korean mothers who have daughters between the ages of twelve and sixteen suggested plastic surgery to their daughter.” Wow. Thanks, Mom. Sadly, this doesn’t surprise me, nor does this statistic: “81.5 percent of women between twenty-five and twenty-nine felt the need for cosmetic surgery.”

Numbers don’t lie, baby. Approximately half the adult females of Korea have received plastic surgery, many of them unnecessarily. The root cause is this omnipotent social pressure. And if you can’t buy into these bogus statistics, check this. I’ve dated my fair share of Korean hotties and all of them have considered plastic surgery at one point or another. A couple even admitted to getting it. One of the girls who hadn’t was constantly berated by her aunt to get her eyes and nose done, despite the fact she was perfectly lovely. As sick as it is, though, it comes from a place of love. They want their daughters to be successful, and in Korea, just like most of the world, pretty people just get farther in life.

It’s not just with looks. Pressure extends into the realm of education too. Korean parents spend an average of one thousand dollars per child per month on private academies from the time they’re six years old. What makes this even more impressive is that the average salary in Korea is less than two thousand dollars per month. You can imagine why little Billy Lee isn’t so much encouraged to “find his passion” as get perfect scores on every single test he takes. And if he falls short, well, that’s why God invented corporal punishment.

But it’s not all psychics, savage beatings and bank-breaking debt. Korean company life has taught me the joys of 회식 (pronounced “hway-shik”). This is the the pressure of the forced-drinking variety. 회식 translates to something like “company food,” the idea being that workers and bosses go out together to eat. In reality, everyone just ends up getting sloppy drunk. Or, at least, I do. The older company men at work have really taken a shining to me, especially the one we call “Soju Guy.” I have yet to go out for a 회식where my memory stays intact. The Koreans actually have a term for this, called “필름이 끊겼다” which translates to “My film got cut.”



In addition to the pressures of family and work, there’s the societal pressure to speak English. Koreans spend an unnatural amount of time studying English. A common ground for such practice “language exchanges.” These are weekly coffee shop events, where foreigners and Koreans go to chill out, sip on lattes and practice various languages. Every time I go, I encounter so many Korean college students, trying like hell to master the English language, and I applaud their efforts. Likewise, I encounter so many foreigner dudes there with the sole purpose of picking up a Korean college girl. Scummy, yes, but also highly effective.

Societal pressure extends even further, out to the dating world. Korea is a country built for couples, and having a boyfriend or girlfriend is kind of a status symbol. Innovations have been made to make this process easier, including a slew of mobile application helping people to meet up and go on dates together. I recently downloaded one called “Badoo” just for the hell of it. While browsing through the list of girls, I found one who was actually pretty cute. Now, despite the fact that this author believes online dating is totally lame, he was a little curious that night and decided to message said cutie in Korean. The following is the translated exchange:

Me: Hey

Badoo Girl: Where are you?

Me: I’m in Itaewon. You?

Badoo Girl: Itaewon’s kinda far, but I can go. Do you want a paid meeting?

Me (trying to understand what a paid meeting is): How much is a paid meeting?

Badoo Girl: Eighty dollars for the short meeting, Sixteen for the long.

Me: So you don’t just want to get drinks?

In case if you missed it, she was a hooker. I tried it out with another few girls, same result. First question is always: “Where are you?” As it turns out, Badoo is essentially an extensive online network of prostitution, and it’s not the only one. Sure, there are real girls there too, but a lot of them (especially the knockouts) are just trying to make a little scratch. Lesson learned: smoking hot girls don’t need a dating service, but some of them do need money.



However, I’m going to take a wild guess and say she didn’t really look like this…

We foreigners are sometimes victim to this Korean pressure as well, even when we’re not aware of it. English academies, where most foreigners work, often put teachers through hell. A year ago, when my replacement teacher came in from America, they constantly criticized his teaching and fired him several times in the first week. In reality, it wasn’t because his teaching was bad, but rather because his hair was too long, which made them fear he was a homosexual. Another dude I met (the only dude in Seoul I’ve met from Boston) likewise got fired from his English Academy after one week of work. The fake reason? His manager “didn’t like his style.” The real reason? He couldn’t speak Korean. His manager believed this might cause a rift in their communication, seeing as he, the manager of an English academy, couldn’t speak English.

I talk a lot about Korea, but it’s always good to know that the rest of East Asia is just as wacky. Some of you may have seen the news about the Chinese man sued his wife for being ugly. Yes, this really happened. 

Here’s how it went down:

A man marries a woman who he finds stunning. Life is good. Then she gets pregnant, and life couldn’t be better. Then the baby comes out and everything goes to hell. Why? Because the baby is really, really ugly. Like, circus ugly. So ugly, in fact, that the man had this to say:

“Our daughter was incredibly ugly, to the point it horrified me.”

Being a good-looking man, he naturally assumed her of cheating on him. After all, it was the only possible way such a disturbingly ugly child could be born to his wife. If only that were the case. In a classic 21st-century twist, it turns out his wife had once been quite ugly herself. However, after undergoing over one hundred thousand dollars in plastic surgery, she turned into a beauty queen. With the truth discovered, the man rescinded his accusation, and then sued her for “marriage under false pretenses.” He ultimately won, and was awarded the equivalent of her plastic surgery costs. That poor kid.



Shown here, the wife, before and after.

And if that story doesn’t warm your soul, here’s a treat from the Land of the Rising Sun:

To say the Japanese are a bunch of insatiable sex-perverts would be a horribly racist thing to say, and this author would never be caught dead pushing such smut. Switching topics for a minute, Japan recently hosted its annual Charity Breast Squeeze Event for the prevention of AIDS. Really, here's the link. As part of the “Erotica will Save the World” campaign, ten adult film actresses volunteered to allow their sweater cows to be squeezed for donations to charity. The event was wildly successful this year. Many participants, after donating and squeezing, got right back in line to donate and squeeze again. Disgusting or genius? You be the judge.



Side note: there was another booth at this charity function known as the “Masturbation Marathon.” No further description was provided.

And as long as we’re off topic, let’s talk about food. As you know, I am always in search for bizarre fare from far off lands. But, in my heart of hearts, I’m really just a freedom-loving American boy who loves a good burger. Finding American food in Korea isn’t hard. Finding good American food in Korea is almost impossible. Most places are just filled with noobs peddling flavorless, bastardized mini-burgers or salads covered in corn and sauerkraut for some terrible reason. Such places leave me feeling cheated and used, like a rebound girl who thought she found the one. There is, however, one place in Seoul that is the exception to this rule.

Located on Apgu Rodeo, just above the NBA store is a gem known as Salt n’ Butter. I mean, sure, it’s got a friendly staff, open kitchen, good music, all the elements of good atmosphere, but if you’re anything like me, for you, it all boils down to taste. So, what about the food?

What would say to peach salads with goat cheese that eat like a meal, spicy buffalo wings served with French fries dripping in home made chili, and the only authentic pesto pasta in all of Seoul? Yes, it has all of these, but where Salt n’ Butter really shines is the burgers. Before Salt n’ Butter, I never thought I would find a burger that would rival an all-American patty, let alone transcend it. The true testament to this is in the care that goes into every burger. The owner built a smokehouse and personally smokes all the bacon himself. If that’s not commitment, I know not the definition of this word.




My latest addiction at Salt n’ Butter is the spicy chicken sandwich, which, I kid you not, is the fattest chicken sandwich I have ever eaten. Seriously, it looks like they stuffed an entire chicken in between two toasted buns, dripping in hot sauce and slaw.



Dear God, it’s beautiful. Ever since I left America, there’s a hole inside me I’ve been trying to fill, and I’m pretty sure this burger is the answer.

You know people, life out here is truly a roller coaster ride. There are highs and lows, adventure and longing, decision and indecision. It’s not all delicious burgers and breast squeezing. Sometimes, I am riddled with doubt. It’s not hard, being away for this long from the people I love to not sometimes wonder if I had made a mistake coming out here. Not that it hasn’t been amazing. Surely, it has. But with every decision we make, we embrace one world and destroy another. My mind sometimes thinks about those worlds that never existed, had I spent the last two years in Boston, or gone to grad school, or joined the Peace Core.

But then, something usually comes along and reminds me that I’m on the right path, at least for the time being. The topic of this blog was Korean pressure, especially that of parents. But it’s true around the world, parents put pressure on their children, whether they want to or not. When you become a parent, you go a little insane. There’s no avoiding it. You have to be crazy to devote your life to completely taking care of another. That’s the beautiful part about it.

That’s why I’m happy to announce that my Korean brother Alex and his lovely wife Helena have just given birth to a very healthy and very awesome baby boy. I never imagined be an uncle, especially the uncle to a Korean baby, but like I said, life has a way of coming along and showing us whether or not we’re on the right path.



So, to my nephew, Dan Yu Kim (김단유), thank you, and welcome to the world, little man.

-Uncle Dan

Friday, October 12, 2012

Foley Gangnam Style


Hello Lovers of Gangnam,

There is a matter of grave importance that must be addressed before we begin. It is a topic that is neither pleasant, nor happy. I fought this with every morsel of power in my being, but sometimes, one must know when to relinquish one’s stubbornness and embrace the inevitable. I’m referring, of course, to Psy and his megaton-bomb of a hit, “Oppa Gangnam Style.”

For those of you that have been living under a rock, here is the video:



 And it’s sweeping the world like some sort of Ebola Dance Virus. The other night in Seoul an impromptu Gangnam-style concert brought in a crowd of 50,000 onlookers. I saw the Today Show coverage with an endless mob of New Yorkers all dancing in unison to Psy’s siren tune. I mean, the man just got signed by Justin Bieber’s manager. I can’t go a day on Facebook without seeing a mention of it. People…I just don’t get it. I’m not saying it’s a bad song. The first time I heard it, I was like, “Yeah, that’s kinda fun.” But…how is it blowing up like this?

As a side note, the meaning behind “Oppa Gangnam Style” is in reference to the place, known as “Gangnam,” the upscale, hyper-snobby shopping/eating/partying area located centrally in Seoul. It’s a mockery of the shallow, materialistic mindset of both the mega-rich and those who pretend to be so strutting around Gangnam. It really is quite clever. But still…I…I just don’t get it.



And apparently, neither do the Japanese, who are boycotting the release of his song. As it turns out, while the Japanese normally love Kpop, they can’t stand Psy. The explanation? The Japanese only dig Kpop because the singers are so pretty…and Psy just doesn’t cut it for them. I expect that out of a horny teenage boy, but an entire country? For shame, Japan.

But enough of my hating. Welcome back to the infamous Foley in Korea blog. Between the last post and this one, my two year anniversary in this lovely country came and passed, and now I am on year three. Crazy, yes?

Sometimes I fear that this country has started to lose some of its mojo for me, that the novelty has worn off and there is nothing to awe me anymore. Whenever such a feeling comes over me, I always take a walk at night, and my love for this land is always refreshed by this beautiful sight.




No, this is not some homeless guy. This is a man who most likely has a wife and kids, a fairly good paying job, and maybe even a vacation house in Jeju. But yes, he is sleeping on the street, above one of the subway street vents. For the record, this is on the main road of Itaewon, one of the biggest districts in Seoul. I snapped this on my way home, at about four in the morning. This is not a rare sight. Korean men, after consuming large quantities of adult beverages, often find themselves a cozy little street corner to pass out in. Why? Because taxis are too expensive and the streets are just so damn comfortable. The astonishing thing is that nothing ever happens to these people.
In America, Thailand, France, any other country, if you pass out in the street, you’ve already given up on your wallet and your shoes. You just have to pray no one is going to snag your organs while they’re at it. In Korea, the drunken street-sleeper only fear upon waking is that his wife is going to castrate him. Here’s a few more candids of said phenomenon.





 For these and more beautiful shots, check out the website devoted to Korean dudes sleeping on the side of the street at http://blackoutkorea.blogspot.kr/

 This level of cushiness isn’t just confined to narcoleptic partiers, though. The other day, I lost my wallet. Now, normally this would be upsetting, as it was made of alligator skin and a gift from my lovely Korean sugar mama…but then I remembered, “Oh wait. I’m in Korea.” It was waiting for me at the store I had left it at, money and cards intact. Now, it’s true that not everyone outside of Korea is a soulless wallet ganker. Hell, you might have encountered the same thing in America, finding your wallet safe and sound in the store clerk’s hands. Here’s the difference: in America, you assume it’s gone. You drive to the store in a pissed-off fear that someone is using your credit cards to buy a new diamond tiara. In Korea, you strut with pride, knowing that alligator skin is just chilling in that store, waiting for daddy. Hell, I’ve dated girls who have lost wallets in taxis, and then the next day, the taxi will drive to their house to deliver it.

Ah, Korean girls. Can I go one blog post without mentioning them? Of course not. But they are a dangerous creature—the black hair, the long legs, the seductive eyes—all combine to form a man-slaughtering she-beast that shows no mercy. Perhaps the most deadly weapon this she-beast has is the destructive force known as “aegyo” (애교). Aegyo, in a nutshell, is the Korean word for women acting cute in order to attain things from men. It walks a fine line between being adorable and annoying as hell, but the women who can successfully wield this weapon are like sexy cyanide. The most common practice of this is with the word “oppa” (오빠), And yes, to answer your next question, the very same meaning as “Oppa Gangnam Style”.) Oppa directly translates to “older brother,” but is in reality closer to something like “baby” or “honey.” Usually it’s used in the context of “buy me that” or “do this for me.” But it is more than just a word. It is also a complicated manipulation of speech, to sound overly bubbly and helpless, and, if executed properly, melts me like a stick of butter thrown into the sun. For a cartoonish and goofy depiction of this culturally acceptable seduction, refer to the video below.


(It's way hotter in real life. I promise.) 

Women are not the only dictators men in Korea have to deal with, however. Every single Korean man must devote at least two years of his life to the military. That’s the rule. There are no exceptions…unless, of course, they have some sort of serious medical condition that prohibits them from service…or something that fits under the umbrella of “serious medical condition.” You see where I’m going with this. There is a group of Korean men who are the modern equivalent of those American dudes in the sixties who were chopping of their pinky toes to get out of going to Vietnam. The only difference is the Koreans have got it down to a science. There are actual online guides for dodging military service using the least painful methods possible. One guy developed a system where, every day when leaving his apartment, he would jump down each and every step of his apartment building. He did this every day for three years. The result somehow altered the bone structure of his knees to the point he was no longer “a viable applicant” for the Korean Army, despite the fact he could walk run just fine. Or, as another of my friends is doing, you can just leave the country every two months, thus avoiding your call to boot camp for the viable excuse of “being out of the country.”

Totally unrelated, but the other day, at the office, I received an interesting comment from a coworker. After I got a hair cut and a shave, a guy in my office said to me:

“Hey man, you look shiny today.”

And it was true…I did look shiny. It got me thinking about language, though, and how differently we understand the world around based off words.

Also unrelated, the other day I discovered that one of the best known red light districts in Seoul is literally a stone’s throw away from my apartment. It is the infamous region of Itaewon known as “Hooker Hill.” Here, a man can be propositioned for sex at 9:30AM on a Sunday morning. Wow, the service!


(It's about as swanky as it gets.)

One more element of randomness before I get to the point of this blog. Far be it for me to call myself a man of culture, but I recently bore witness to one of the best films I have ever seen. Dark, hilarious, mind-bending, action packed, disturbing, and beautiful are just some of the words to describe the Award-Winning Korean film “Oldboy” – a story of vengeance. I highly recommend watching it, especially as the American remake, directed by Spike Lee and starring Josh Brolin, is set to come out next year. That way, you can be one of those people who think they’re better than everyone else because they’ve already seen the original. Fair warning, though, it’s for the faint of heart.


(Classic scene from Oldboy)

The real reason I wanted to bring all you here is for a discussion on North Korea. In a worldwide poll, North Korean citizens score lowest in terms of personal freedom. This means that that Cubans, the Sudanese, and Iraqis are all way freer than North Korea. That’s really saying something. Will this ever change? I don’t know. Last year, such talk would seem insane, with Kim Jong-Il in power. This is a man whose people were starving to death while he was invented his own version of basketball. Like…really. The man created a version of basketball which is, by all measures, insane. It completely revises the point system into something far more swag. Here’s the breakdown:

Dunk: 3 points
Three pointer nothing-but-net: 4 points
Missing a free throw: Negative 1 point
Any shot in the last three seconds: 8 points

…I actually kinda like it.

But now he’s dead. And with him out, his son, the very young Kim Jong-Un, is stepping into power, and there are some changes being made. For instance, he recently built a water amusement park for his people. Unlike the creepy, unnaturally happy people you usually see on the news, these people actually looked happy. He is also allowing women to wear pants, because evidently they were not allowed to do so before. And, finally, pizza is now allowed in North Korea. Thank God.



They’re also finally accepting South Korean Aid again. What this means, I know not. But I’ve been learning more and more about it with time, as I recently began tutoring North Korean defectors. The process is very surprising. I was warned, prior to this tutoring, that it would take place in a police station, and I was not allowed to ask them questions about life in North Korea. Taking pictures of them was forbidden, as any photographic evidence of their existence in South Korea could spell death or jail time for their families still living in North Korea.

As expected, I was slightly nervous stepping into that police station. After all, there was some inevitable heavy shit ahead of me.

Then I got there and they were so normal. I was talking with one high school girl who kept bitching about having too much homework. Another girl was telling me how she had just started dating this guy and couldn’t tell if he was a playboy or not. It was shocking how benign their lives were. The icing on this uber-normal cake was the conversation I overheard between a North Korean dude and his English Tutor:

English Tutor: What kind of movies do you like?

North Korean Dude: War movies are my favorite.

English Tutor: You ever see “Pearl Harbor?”

North Korean Dude: Hey man, I’m not gay.

It’s like I’m just taking a walk in Southie. The sheer normalness of these people who once lived in North Korea is so refreshing and happy. I guess it proves that, if the human person is anything, he is an adaptable beast.

Last thing, people, and that is mission accomplished. From January of this year, until now, I’ve been working on a novel about a young man living in Korea; his experiences with food and culture and girls and life. I know, it’s a pretty far out idea. But just last week I finished the first draft. It’s 120,000 words. For reference, that’s slightly longer than the third Harry Potter book. But, it’s rough, a lot of it is crap, and it needs some revising for sure. But, in a few months, after I wax-on, wax-off it into something prettier, I’m going to need some poor souls to suffer through it as editors. Please, let me know if any of you are the slightest bit interested.

But that’s all for now. Much love, party people. I miss you all very much.

-North Korean Pizza Delivery Guy

Monday, August 20, 2012

Beauty Queens and Costco: the Shocking Truth


Hello Beauty Queens,

It occurred to me, while writing this entry, that almost every blog entry I write touches on the issues of plastic surgery and food in Korea. This one will be no different. But why? I always knew that my addiction to food borders on that of a crack-addict, but I have little explanation for my strange fixation with plastic surgery. Perhaps it’s because, while I hate the Korean obsession of appearance and their reliance on plastic surgery, I really, really, really dig hot chicks. They may be the only thing in this world I love more than food. But it comes at a terrible price. Behold, the story to come.

Miss Korea. Doesn’t every little girl dream of being that someday? I know I did, until my Dad beat that dream out of me. Just like in America, Miss Korea is the classic example of girls with no real talents beyond looks, and possibly, juggling, being rewarded by society. This is not to knock them. It is nothing short of amazing just how stunningly beautiful these girls are. For instance, this is Miss Korea 2012.


I know. Here’s one more of her, just because I love her so much.

 

Okay…okay, just one more.


Alright, now that I got that out of my system, let’s get to the point. Her victory in the pageant was recently tarnished when past photographs of her were revealed online. As it turned out, she had gotten a little work done. But, you’re probably thinking, this is Korea, right? Doesn’t ever Korean Movie/Drama/K-pop star get surgery? Why, yes. Yes they do. But this was not a simple nose job. This was the human equivalent to tearing down a crappy apartment complex and then rebuilding it stone by stone into a castle. This, is what Miss Korea looked like in high school.

 
Let’s see that side by side.
 

Yeah, I know.
 

Whew. Glad that’s over. Now we can finally talk about food…kinda.

I recently underwent an experience both horrifying and great, akin to something of a religious or sexual awakening. That’s right, boys and girls, I found out Korea has Costco. And I went. While my words cannot adequately describe the intense emotional bungee jump that Korean Costco was, I will attempt my best.

To anyone who has ever been to Costco in America, the Korean one is exactly, and I mean exactly, the same…except it’s in in Korea. While that might not sound like it means anything, you have to take in the socio-cultural aspects of Koreans and understand why this changes the game completely.

You see, Koreans, for being an extremely industrious people, are hideously unorganized and inefficient when it comes to things like, you know, walking in a store. There are no lines, no flow, no people letting other people cross in front of them. There is only chaos, and the occasional sound of a baby crying. Combine this with the knowledge that there is only one Costco in Seoul, a city with a population of over ten million. And, as Korea is such a small country, building space is extremely expensive, which means the aisles of the Korean Costco are far narrower to save costs. What this equates to is a small slice of hell. I have no history of claustrophobia. Somehow, though, I got claustrophobic in Costco, which is impressive because it’s in a warehouse. Here’s the photographic evidence.

 

Why endure this punishment? Like I said before, it’s the exact same thing as an American Costco, meaning that is has American food. While that might mean nothing to you lucky souls kickin’ it in your Western Paradise, us stragglers in the East are deprived the basic necessities. Korean grocery stores just don’t handle this kind of merchandise. What am I talking? I’m talking Cheese. Real blocks of cheddar, pepper jack, blue, feta, gouda, anything you can think of. Real bread from a bakery that doesn’t feel the need to put corn in it. Muffins, bagels, danishes. Cinnamon Toast Crunch. Frozen chicken wings. Real cheesecake. Three pound tubs of chocolate covered cherries. Cheese balls. Sour cream. Peanut butter cups. I almost cried. It was like Christmas and the Super Bowl at the Victoria Secret Fashion Show all rolled up into one.

So with Costco, there’s the bad, there’s the good, and then, like everything else in Korea, there’s the weird. My friends, Koreans love side dishes. Most meals require numerous side dishes. Even with Western things like pizza, Korean need pickles as a side dish. Or with fried chicken, they eat radishes. With that in mind, I give you the Korean Costco food court. Identical to the American one. They sell the big-ass pizzas, all-pork hot dogs, and those cankle-building chicken pot pies that we all love so much. And, as anyone who frequents Costco knows, they have diced onion dispensers for the hot dogs. Here’s where the weird pops in. Koreans eat those onions as a side dish. As in, they just take a giant cup, fill it up, sift it down, fill it up some more, pack it down, and just saturate it with ketchup and mustard. Then they eat it with a spoon. Sometimes without any other food accompanying it. They suck this stuff down like Coca Cola. We saw a lady taking a huge sheet of tin foil and loading up as much diced onions as she could for the ride home. While seeing this made me feel a million miles away from home, the woman right next to her performed an act that was nothing short of glorious. In true American fashion, she consumed half of her one pound, all-pork hotdog in a single, massive bite. At once, I felt home.

And while we’re on the subject of food, I spent a cool 24 hours in Tokyo a couple weekends ago. One of the best trips of my life for sure. The high school reunion, the night of partying that raged well into 10AM, and a plethora of gorgeous Japanese babes trying to marry me were all factors, but perhaps the two most unique experiences were of the culinary variety.

The first, Japanese noodles. Noodles chilling in a brown broth with pork is undeniably delicious, though the truly noteworthy thing is the ordering procedure for this treat. Instead of dealing with a person, you place an order through a vending machine. You decide the details, and then out comes your order slip. Then you’re led to what resembles a library study area. Individual divided desks are lined up, facing the kitchen. There is only a small window in which to see into the kitchen, which restricts your vision to just the midsections of the chefs. The true reason for this window, of course, is for the chef to hand you your meal. I feel like it’s the perfect premise for a Japanese romance. The lonely businessman falls in love with the mysterious woman in the kitchen whose face he never sees. It is only her beautiful hands delivering the perfect bowl of noodles, but that is enough for him. Or something lame like that.
 

The other thing I ate was raw chicken. Pretty good, and I didn’t catch the salmonella, which we’re all pretty happy about.

While this Olympics had no shortage of drama, one of the largest on this side of the world was the heated soccer match over rival countries Korea and Japan for the bronze. Korea emerged triumphant. Being an Olympic medalist is no doubt a source of pride and happiness to an athlete, but in Korea, it’s also a source of great relief. As you may be aware, every man in Korea serves an obligatory and miserable two years in the army. That is, unless you’re a medalist in the Olympics. With their victory came emancipation, as the entire Korean Men’s Soccer Team was exempt from military service. The coach even threw in his last bench guy for the final seconds of the game just so he was able to skip his army time. Awesome.

As much as I sometimes think of myself as a citizen of this kimchi-saturated land, from time to time, differences are inevitable. For instance, at work, being on a team with Americans surely creates a divide. Sure, our Korean coworkers come into our part of the office to partake of our snacks and sleep in the broken swivel chair in the corner. Where we differ is when the day end. There is a Korean concept that does not exist in English that we detest. It is that of “야근” oryageun.” This is the very Korean idea of working late without pay because…well, no one really knows why. In an American office, if all your work is done, by three minutes after closing time you’re outside trying to start your car. In Korea, you stick around for another half hour, to an hour because…again, I don’t know why. All I know is that, when we do to escape the office on-time, we must endure the silent judgmental glares from the higher ups for not yageuning.

Sometimes, though, the differences between foreigners and Koreans are a little more serious. Tensions mount. There is, amongst some of the Korean community, a loathing of foreigners in Korea. While not totally unfounded, some Koreans simply hate us. A couple months ago, there was the following absurd news story on the Korean Network MBC entitled “The Shocking Truth About Foreigners:”



First five seconds of the broadcast are a montage of cocky white dudes and Korean women who have been the “victims” of foreigners. These girls claimed to have been robbed after sex or foreigners knocking them up and then leaving the country. One girl even tested positive for HIV. This is, as the video claims, “the shocking truth” about foreigners in Korea. While it is nothing more than ignorant propaganda, what boils me about it is that some people actually buy into this horseshit. They make us sound like a plague in this country, devastating the women and leaving a trail of STD’s to everyone who touches us. While I love this country, this is a problem that always exists—the discrepancy between foreigners and Koreans.

The same is true on our side, though. The disrespect both teachers and army personnel show in this country, especially the men towards Korean women, is just as bad, if not worse. Websites exist on guys sharing their stories and pictures of Korean girls they’ve bagged. Yes, scumbag dudes do this everywhere, but it’s the way in which it’s done. The depictions, from what I’ve read, are from the darkest reaches of the racist douchebag who thinks he’s funny. There’s a lack of respect and human decency, which is multiplied in crappiness by the fact that we are guests in this country.

The Dan Foley solution to this problem? You knew there would be one. Both sides just need to embrace each other.

I’m a big hater of tourism. I love traveling, but I think tourism is artificial and worthless. Tourism, in my mind, is visiting a place. The problem is, some foreigners in Korea act like tourists, and some Koreans treat us that way. When you visit a place, it is a vacation, something superficial and for yourself. I know people who have lived in this country for over a year and are still tourists. But then there are those who aren’t. People who come to a country and experience it. They become part of it. Add to it. Korean people need to stop seeing foreigners as outsiders, and foreigners need to stop acting like it.

I was lucky. I learned Korean sword fighting and was accepted as a brother amongst them. I’ve fallen for and had real connections with girls here. And, maybe the coolest thing of all, something I never thought I’d get to experience, I’m going to.

I get to be an uncle.

As you know, being an only child, while awesome, limits you in the sense that you never get to have nieces and nephews. But, with my adoption into a Korean family, my brother Alex and his wife Helena are having a baby. This October, actually.

And as for all you cats in the States (to whom I love and miss so dearly), I’ll be back home for a bit this Christmas. So, if you got a couple minutes, it’d be good to see you. Each and every one of you.

-Uncle Dan

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Sexy Cakes and SPAM

Before I get started - just to let you all know, my blog URL is moving to http://foleyinkorea.tumblr.com/. Same great blog, different great URL.
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Hello Fake-Meat Consumers,

Lately, Korean people have been saying something to me that messes with my head. I get it in my home, at work, in the clubs. They say it to me with a look of surprise and disdain, and I never really know how to take it. It always goes something like:
“Damn, you’re more Korean than I am.”

Sure, I occasionally enjoy kimchi and eggs in the morning. And, yeah, once in a while, I groove to some K-pop. And there might be a chance my love of Korean girls borders on the point of creepy obsession. But am I more Korean than a Korean? No way, man. I take it as a compliment, for others to believe that I’ve assimilated this well. But, despite how accustomed I become to living this country, there are certain things about Korea that my mind will always reject as wrong.

For instance, SPAM.

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Yes, we’ve all had it at one point or another, when money was tight or when Mom forgot to go grocery shopping. There are only two sane reactions before consuming SPAM. The first is disbelief—the existential question of “Seriously, what the hell is this?” (Spoiler alert: nobody really knows).

The second is classic self-deception. We tell ourselves: “Oh come on, it can’t be that bad…can it?” One bite will tell you, yes, yes it can be that bad and worse. At least, that’s the standard American reaction. And it makes sense. It’s canned, chemical infused, pig shoulder leftovers. No one actually wants SPAM, do they?

Enter South Korea. They dig SPAM here. They dig it hard. They dig it so hard that for national holidays, it is standard practice to give a SPAM Gift Set. What’s in the SPAM Gift Set? SPAM, packaged in a display case in the same way you would see exotic cheeses or high end alcohol.

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Really, no joke.

Koreans see it as some sort of delicacy, whereas, when I see it, my knee-jerk reaction is a full body heave. This proves, at least to myself, I am American to the core of my system.
Even with so much time spent in this country, so many culture norms still surprise the hell out of me. Despite the absurd amounts of outside Influence, Korea manages to stay its own monster. Let’s keep the examples coming:

In an attempt to reform my lanky figure into something that more resembles Brad Pitt in Fight Club, I recently joined a gym with my roommate in Itaewon. As Itaewon is the hub of foreigners in Korea, you can bear witness to all walks of life as they pump iron. There’s the hyper-friendly and hyper-enormous African man, the Mohawked-out, tattoo encrusted American guy who complains to anyone willing to listen, and one dude of mysterious origin looks like Stallone’s slightly-disturbed younger brother. Usually though, you don’t notice where people are from, because you’re too busy flexing your guns in front of the mirror. However, there is one slight discrepancy, one thing that Korean guys will do that no one else would ever be caught dead doing: Lifting weights barefoot.

Even as a person who prefers to spend most of his time shoeless (and, of course, pants-less),  I still can’t get behind this one. Aside from creating a breeding ground for staff infections and ringworm, not wearing shoes when you lift is stupidly dangerous. It’s like cooking naked. I mean sure, it’s more comfortable, but the fear of flames charring my goods keeps me clothed in the kitchen.

As a side note, most Korean guys have a lean to skinny build, so it’s very interesting to see a Korean dude straight yoked out of his mind.

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Am I right?

And I do get nostalgic for the good ‘ole U.S. of A from time to time. The other day, I caught up with an old friend from high school I hadn’t seen in six years. We decided to check out Vatos, a new Mexican joint less than a year old that got rave reviews (#1 Hottest New Restaurant in Seoul by CNNGo). But, If you recall me saying in one of my older entries, hunting down a good Mexican in Korea is like trying to find a unicorn.

Well, I found it.

How good are we talking? Home-made tortillas, legit carne asada steak, and a stupid-big beer selection. I felt home. It didn’t hurt that the guys who started up Vatos are a group of L.A. Koreans who know Mexican food inside and out. In true L.A./Korean style, they also offer a selection of fusion food, blending Mexican and Korean into a single delicious entity. It might sound strange in theory, but in practice they kill it. Some of the features include grilled kimchi carne asada fries, sam-gyup-sal (pork belly) tacos, and my person favorite, Texas-sized Makgeolita. What is a Makgeolita? Half-Margarita, Half-Korean-wine Makgeoli, coming in flavors of apple, peach, strawberry, orange, and, oh yes, mango.

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I consider myself a pretty evenly minded cat (though, I suppose everyone does), but even if you trust me, this next observation might seem harsh. Most of the elements of Korean Culture that irk me are pretty benign, but there is one thing I truly despise. There exists, in this country, a shallowness, an intense focus on that which is material and aesthetic, and it’s really, really bad.

I’m not gonna restate old points in this post (like how half of the chicks out here get plastic surgery) but moving to Seoul has made me a bit colder to the culture here. Gwangju could be shallow at times, but Seoul is on a whole ‘nother level of shallowness. I’m talking kiddy pool shallow.

To be fair, some of it could be dismissed as practical. For instance, Korean women take it as dogma that no man is worth marrying that doesn’t already have his own apartment, own car, and job of “high-esteem.” While this makes sense pragmatically, the hardcore romantic inside of me cries out in agony. What ever happened to the notion of the young married couple struggling together, huddled under a blanket because there’s not enough money for heat this winter, staying warm on love and dreams? Where’s the adventure? Where’s the passion, baby?

That might just be me being crazy and unrealistic. Truly, though, some of the shallowness in this country is just downright nasty. The epicenter of this phenomenon? Night clubs. The other night at the club, one of my boys was dancing with this very pretty girl and offered to buy her a drink. She accepted, and he promptly returned with two Heinekens. Her response, upon seeing the beers, was:
“Beer? I only drink champagne.”

Now, I know this exact exchange has probably gone down in New York, Paris, Hong Kong, and any city where excessive wealth can be found. But it’s the consistency at which you see this happen, especially if you’re a guy like me. At the venues I’ve been frequenting, more and more, girls see me as a dollar sign (instead of the hot piece of meat that I am). And, when they discover that dollar sign is so very small, they lose interest immediately. In Seoul, in the battle between the wallet and the heart, the wallet wins nine times out of ten.

On a sociological level it makes sense. You take a dirt poor country torn by invasion and civil war, and then in fifty years transform them into the one of the world’s strongest economies. What’s going to happen? You’re going to create a culture focused on success, especially success with the Almighty Dollar. Korea is often strangely reminiscent of 1950’s America and the whole “keeping up with the Jones’” mentality.

But, if superficiality is Korea’s vice, its virtue is family. Korea’s foundation in family is a truly remarkable thing. They stay together ‘til the bitter end. This is one of the largest factors in the lack of crime and low percentage of homeless people. But I mostly dig it for the family parties. Speaking of which, I recently got a chance to go down to Suncheon to celebrate my Korean Father’s book publication. Some things worth mentioning:

We had a bokbunja cake. Bokbunja is a Korean raspberry rice wine that Koreans claim is “good for men’s stamina.” After saying it, they usually giggle. Because they’re talking about sex. Usually, when Koreans make such claims, I try the stuff and have no idea what the hell they’re talking about. This was different. I can’t logically explain it, but somehow, with the bokbunja cake, they were right. It was the sexiest baked good I’ve ever had.

Even crazier was the Tiger Soju. I’ll cut right to the chase on this one. Whether it was bullshit or not, I’ll never know, but this was soju made with tiger. Like, the animal. Grrr baby. Purchased in China, it was extremely expensive, highly illegal, and, much to my surprise, tasted like tiger. Again, this is one of those ineffable things. Trying to explain it would somehow make the experience less ferocious, and we wouldn’t want to do that.

The true highlight of the party though, was seeing my Korean family. My Korean Dad was so happy to see me come, he made me this:

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It’s an old Chinese proverb. The take-home message is this:

“He who speaks little causes few problems.”

So, while I love all you cats out there reading my blog, I’m going to take that Chinese advice, and say no more for today.

-

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Sake it to Me, Baby...Yeah!

Welcome Problem Drinkers,

To Foley in Korea: Hangover Edition. For this entry, I’ve compiled stories that all more or less follow the theme of the sheer excess of Korean booze culture.  My main goal, as always, is to educate you on this lovely country where alcohol poisoning has a national pastime.

In America, many people binge drink, but always, at one point or another, they will be subjected to our Puritanical system of guilt. Now not every country is like that. Sure, there are plenty of countries where people drink to excess, some places where’s it’s even acceptable, but perhaps nowhere is it as shameless and integrated into society as it is in Korea. In fact, if one was cynical enough, one might make the claim Korea is, in fact, built around drinking.

There are the little things, like the fact that night clubs stop running at the same time the buses and subways start running (6:00AM) or that many businessmen are required to drink to excess with their bosses on a nightly basis. Those are the little things. Some stuff, though, is just plain ridiculous.
For example, the convenience of getting mega-smashed. Korea prides itself on being a nation of convenience. If your cell phone runs out of juice, you can charge it at any 7-Eleven for less than a dollar, and most department stores and bars. You can use a computer anywhere in the city for about an hour for about the same price as well, complete with comfortable chairs and high speed connections. And, if you’re super hungover, you can just go to the hospital and get an IV.

Yes, sports fans, it’s common practice in Korea to go to the hospital if you’re feeling super hungover. Not alcohol poisoned. Just like the blazing-head-ache-promising-to-never-drink-again-kind-of hangover. That’s all you need to get medical attention.  You don’t even need to lie. You just show up, say, “Doc, I got so sloshed last night and got an important meeting in the A.M.” and for a small fee, he’ll pump a needle and a bag into your arm and your hangover will be a distant memory.

And if going to the hospital is too much of a struggle, there is a multitude of food and drink available to he who has partaken of, or shall partake of, a surplus of spirited beverages. They have medicine that lines your stomach. They have vitamin powered anti-hangover supplements. And of course, they have the oh-so-popular “Hangover Soup.”


What is this powerful potage, you ask? It’s a tasty and thick broth formed from ox bone, soybean paste, and soybean sprouts. As it turns out, these soybean sprouts are absurdly good at detoxifying alcohol. Science has recently proven this fact, but Koreans have known about it for centuries, as the plant is native to Korea. It’s almost as if God was prepping the Korean Peninsula for a society of binge drinking.

All that being said, I have nothing against alcohol. Nor do I have anything against the Buddhist faith. Now that I’ve made myself clear, I may continue. Korea is occasionally plagued with a problem you rarely see in America: drunk monks. No, it’s not common, but it does happen. These are Buddhist Monks (or, perhaps shaved-bald headed men dressed like monks) who get silly on soju and cause problems. There’s one in Gwang-ju with just such a reputation. I experienced his hospitality a month ago when I walked by him on the street and he punched me. Sure, it was just in the arm, but what the hell? The worst thing I did was smile at him. He’s also been known to go into bars and start fights…and has a taste for grabbing girls on the ass.

But I guess it makes sense. I mean, there are so many righteous monks in Korea, there have to be a couple assholes. Still though, it’s a weird feeling, getting grilled by a monk after he hits you for no reason. Maybe it’s because I had such high expectations of him. Or maybe some unconscious part of my spirit remembered how I totally screwed him over in a past life. Who’s to say?

To shift gears slightly (but stay on the subject of alcohol), this goes out to my fellow Americans. I don’t know if you’re aware of this, but on television beer commercials in America, you’re actually not allowed to show people drinking beer. Now, before you think of correcting me, try to remember a commercial where people drink beer. Here’s a hint: it doesn’t exist. Commercials can show beer being poured, people holding beer, and those people looking like they’re just about to take a sweet sip of that delectable barley-hops fusion…but they never actually do it. Why not? Because we think it’s a bad influence to children. Boooorrrrrrrrrr-ring.

Korea takes a slightly different approach. Rather than encourage healthy drinking habits, they decide to show children the proper way to binge drink. During every Korean Major League Baseball Game, Cass Beer Corp. sponsors a little healthy competition between fans of the opposing team via the jumbo-tron. What is this event? A homerun contest? A pitch-off? Hell no. It’s a beer chugging contest! You, versus a rival, to see who can crush a cold one faster while thousands cheer. It’s every frat boy’s dream come true. The best part is, alongside the fame and prestige of competing in such a game, the winner is awarded a roaring round of applause and a cool case of Cass Beer. Awesome.


I know all the talk of alcohol is fantastic, but I must digress for a moment. Recently, I was able to move out from my ha-suk-jib (boarding house from hell with no bed) and into a deluxe apartment in the sky. It’s actually only on the third floor, but having a bed, and a kitchen, and two bathrooms for me and my two roommates, well, that feels about as close to heaven as you can get.

And, while my previous neighborhood population was predominantly elderly Korean women with a permanent expression of disdain on their faces, my current neighborhood is located in the hyper-rich embassy area. And when it comes to living near hyper-rich foreigners, you can be sure you see a good amount of really, really fat people daily, usually a rarity in this land.

It’s also located a ten minute walk to Itaewon, or as it’s often referred to as, “The Land of Wide-Eyes.” Itaewon has strange and legendary appealing in Seoul, as it is the breeding ground of all foreigners. They all come to party, eat, and generally mingle. Let’s look at this bizarre location from both the eyes of the optimist and the pessimist.

The Optimist: Awesome food (Greek, Mexican, Brazilian, etc.), real  microbrewed beer and imported liquor, a budding international community, and a place where you can talk about the Celtics and people will actually know what the hell you’re talking about.

The Pessimist: Expensive food (seriously, who wants to spend twenty bucks a person on Mexican food?), real expensive microbrewed beer and imported liquor, foreign douchebags, and a complete and utter lack of Korean culture within the country of Korea.

Itaewon was originally dominated by the American military, but after they caused so many fights that noise disturbances that the government kicked them the hell out, it’s become a lot nicer. Sometimes, it’s a much needed getaway from all that which is Korea, and gives just a little flavor of home. It’s kinda like a Chinatown for white and black and Hispanic and Japanese and…well pretty much, just think of it as the “Non-Koreatown.”

Oh, and speaking of Japan…I went to Japan two weeks ago. Sounds like a big deal, I know, but when you start to realize the distance between Busan, South Korea and Fukuoka, Japan is about 159 miles, it sounds way less impressive. (For point of reference, it’s 190 miles from Boston to New York).

Why did I go? To get my visa, so I could get paid for my new job. You see, you can’t get a visa for a country inside of that same country. For instance, if you live in America, and you want to renew your visa, well my friend, you best get ready for a road trip to Tijuana or Montreal (though I highly recommend Montreal). I know, it doesn’t make a whole lot of sense, but just roll with it.

Now, because I couldn’t get paid until I acquired said visa, this had to be a budget trip. How budget? Like instead of springing for a hotel, I reasoned it’d be cheaper to stay up all night partying…in a city where I knew no one. You ever see the show “24” before? Well, it was kinda like that. From the moment I left my apartment on Saturday until the plane took off from Osaka Airport on Sunday morning, it was exactly twenty-four hours. So, you can imagine, while leaving my apartment, I was thinking:

The following takes place from 10:00AM to 10:00PM on the day of the Dan Foley Osaka Trip. Events occur in real time.

10:00: I leave my house with nothing but my wallet, my passport, a T-shirt and pair of jeans. No bag, no camera. No bag because I don’t want to lug something around all night and I didn’t want the crutch of bringing a computer. No camera because, well, I dropped it a couple weeks before and the lens got all messed up.

13:10: I exchange my money for 5,000 Japanese Yen and board my plane for Osaka, a city known for its octopus balls, wild fashion, and cheap plane tickets. (Shown below, octopus balls)


15:03: I arrive alongside a middle-aged white suburban mom type who doesn’t seem to have a damn clue on how to operate the commuter rail into the city. I share her dilemma. Turns out, their automated machines make about as little sense as possible, and have avoided using Korean or English at all costs. The computer rail ends up costing 1,100 Yen into the city. This means I would have to pay the same amount going out. Quick math will tell you that leaves me with 2,800 Yen for the rest of the ride.

17:22 I find my way to Osaka Sky Building, one of their must-see sites. It looks kind of like the Great Eye of Sauron at night and on its side is a glass elevator to the top that makes me queasy in all the wrong ways.


17:49: I stop in a dumping restaurant for some sustenance and take in the sites and the sounds. Strangest thing I find so far is the vending machines on every corner, selling a wide variety of tea-based drinks. By the end of the trip, I will have spent a cool eight dollars on these alone.

19:23: On the outskirts of Namba, the downtown district, I run into four middle school Japanese girls. They convince me to buy these fried chicken fries that are evidentially all the craze. I talk with them for a little while but slowly slink away, lest I be thought to be a pedophile by onlookers.

19:41: Arrive in Namba. I am immediately struck by the sheer absurdity and gnarliness of Japanese fashion. The chicks: way too much make-up. It’s caked on, in the sense that it looks like their faces have literally have cake on them. But their clothes, holy crap. I’ve never noticed fashion in an entire city before, but the bright colors, strange combinations, wild hair…it was impossible to ignore. Especially on the grandmas (not a joke).

19:52: Eleven minutes later, a notice the dudes. Every one of them looked like a Dragon Ball Z character, complete with radical, dyed, blown out hair, and wacky and bright combinations of jackets and shoes. There  was something undeniably unique and just plain cool about some of these guys…and then there were the ones who took it way too far. These poor souls rocked David Bowie haircuts, space-age shoes, and glitter jeans. It all screamed for a return to the the glorious sexual ambiguous rock of the early 1970’s.

20:20: Upon biting into a sixer of octopus balls, I have the sudden realization that I’m going to be stuck in a city for the next ten hours with very little money, no language skills, and where I know a grand total of zero people.  A minor freak out ensues, but I manage to finish my octopus balls.

20:57: I decide to take matters into my own hands. It’s only 9:00PM on a Saturday night. It’s far too early to succumb to fear and accept defeat. It’s time…to meet some people. I have no idea how I’m going to do it, but as God as my witness, I’m going to make moves.

21:23: I come across a white guy dragging a trash can across the street. We strike up a conversation. Turns out he’s a Mormon Missionary/street drummer/foreign language specialist. We walk and talk for a bit, turns out he’s got a decent grip on Korean. He shows me around a bit, to the main bridge in Namba where all the action goes down. Here’s the famous light up boardwalk along the bridge (why the running man is selling no one seems to know):


.21:49: We part ways and I meet some French blokes who were making their rounds across northeast Asia on holiday. We part ways quickly, because they have to go eat baguettes and go to bed.

22:50: After wandering  around for a while my T-shirt starts to gather attention. I am wearing a T-shirt that says “외국인” (way-guk-in) on it, which translates to “foreigner” in Korean. Doesn’t sound that funny to English speakers, but Koreans truly appreciate the irony of the shirt. So much that, every Korean I see has the exact same reaction. They stop in their tracks, start laughing, and then have to ask me about my shirt. One woman went so far as to offers me a tutoring job. Another dude was willing to pay me fifty dollars for my shirt and give me the one he was wearing on the house.

(Yes, I was peacocking hard).

23:47: While walking along the river, I happen across a group of twenty-something’s crushing Asahi by the river. It turns out they were a mix of Korean and Japanese students, with a random guy from Uruguay. None of them really speak English, but luckily, I’ve been taking Korean lessons. And so the drunken river conversations begin.

04:32: (Next morning): We’ve been talking and drinking together for four hours. Turns out, somehow the fusion of sake and octopus balls makes my Korean loads better. Despite my almost beastly amount of energy prior to this moment, something about the sky going from black to navy to blue is making my eyelids heavy. My newfound friends promise to come visit me in Korea, and cook me and my friends a giant feast when they come. I tell them that sounds good, and hop aboard the computer rail again, with just enough money to make it back to the airport.

06:00: Upon arriving in the terminal, I fall dead asleep on the row of seats. There are no dividers, so my long, goofy ass has plenty of room to get cozy.

10:00: I board my plane in a state of mind that is neither awake nor asleep, making me seriously wonder if this Japanese excursion was just some strange alcohol induced dream. And just as quickly as it began, my intense 24 episode ends, visa in hand, mission accomplished.

That, my friends, was my first taste of Japan. Do I want another? Absolutely. But in the future. It was relieving returning to Korea. It solidified a profound truth in my mind. There was something I believed, but always questioned. It became apparent the with each new country that I traveled to. After China, and Thailand, and now Japan, I’m pretty sure I can be certain that Korea is definitely the place in Asia that suites me best.

And the reason for that is the girls. Korean girls are clearly the hottest.

But I miss and love you all. I hope you enjoyed my drunken observations. The next time you’re hungover, I hope you think of me.

-King Lush